Thursday, August 23, 2007

South/Cental America #10 - Bolivia > Argentina


Photos: Bolivia | Argentina

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1. Oruro
2. Potosi
3. Uyuni
4. Tilcara
5. Salta
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All,

I hope that everyone is well back home, thanks to all that have written to me recently it is great to hear of everyone´s news.

Well Oruro was ok, a nice place to wander around for a day, problem was that I was there for two and all of the sites I went to see were over 400km away. So I went out to some hot springs that turned out to be a luke warm pool and returned to Oruro where I found the onlt other Gringos in town and we sat and had a couple of beers in the sun with the federal police who happend to be a little affected by the beer followed by dinner at a Chinese restaurant aptly named Jackie Chans.

Headed off to Potosi and whilst falling in love with the views from the bus I stepped off to find myself at 4000m and a little light headed. Wandered around town and noticed that everyone just wanders and goes no where, crazy people just love to freeze. Paul re-joined me in the morning and we sepnt the day checking out the gorgeous colonial town that has prospered from the imposing hill (Cerro Rico) that towers above. Over the past 450 years the Spanish and now the Bolivans have taken out enough silver to build a bridge between there and Madrid Spain...and enough dead slaves to build the same bridge (8 million died working with mercury and in the mines).

We took a tour of a working mine and it was a step back in time, 2 tonne carts coming flying at you with 10 year olds pushing them through bare rock tunnels, crawl wholes leading every which direction as someone pushed for a bit of luck. We were inside for about 4 hrs and the last spot to visit was two guys 4 floors down and working with hammer and chisel in 40 degree heat for 10 hours per day, 6 days a week. We went back outside and got to blow up the dynamite that we bought from the local shops...oh also tried the miners drink of choice - 96% alcohol, and they drink 800ml straight every Friday to applease the mountain devils.

Off next up to the strange but interesting Uyuni, a town built on the idea to send through a train line and now the tourism that has opened up with the worlds largest salt flats. We took a tour over 4 days, first day was amazing as we crossed over the dead flat endless white expanse that makes you loose all sense of perspective but makes for some great photos. Stopped by an island on the flats and then headed onto to camp where guys from the 4WD attempted to play football at 4300m. Off the next day passing mountains that looked like they had been groomed, past many lagoons full of Flamingos (I too thought they were African) and then past some great rock formations. That night at 5000m it was minus 25 outside and minus 9 inside, so cold that the toilet froze solid...Next continued through the altiplano through some great geysers, swam in hot springs (natrual and hot ones this time) and ended up at Laguna Verde a nice green lake at the base of a volcano...on the way back the fun began.

Almost into camp we heard a rattle in the axel...looking at it the back axel had shifted so without a blink Emilio the driver jumps out runs up the hill and pulls out a tree, we attempt to drive down the hill when the drive shaft breaks, again he jumps out with the sort of look that this happens way too often. So under he goes, re-joins the drive shaft and then uses the tree against the bumper to hold it is place....ingeneous, Mac Giver eat your heart out. The next day all was fixed somehow over night andwe drove back to Uyuni stopping and crazy towns and the train cemetery.

Next night caught the train to the border and then finally back in Argentina...you notice the difference staright away. That night was Paul´s and mine last night travelling together and we went out for a great steak that my taste buds have been watering for (thanks Rach - Solar de Covento), then a couple of wines and we hit Barney Gomez to all hours...plus a trip to a pool hall that could only be descibed as the lonley hearts club. The next day Ida (a Norweign friend) and I travelled up to Tilcara, a town set in amazing multi-coloured hills. I went for plenty of long hikes and visited the correctly named hill of seven colours.

I am now back in Salta were I have settled in for 3 weeks of Spanish lessons in one of the best cities that I have found in South America, my teacher is cool and I have a great deal for one-on-one teaching for 3hrs a day.

Roland

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