South/Cental America #11 - Argentina

Argentina
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1. Salta
2. Santiago del Estero
3. Cafayate
4. Tafi del Valli
5. La Rioja
6. Mendoza

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All,

I hope that everyone is well back home, I am sure that you are all missing me. This installment sees the 6 months anniversary come around and I for sure can not believe that it has been that long, but thinking back over the time it is also hard to fathom how much I have squeezed into what really is a short period of time.

I settled into life in Salta quite easily and I think that I must have been ready for the rest, I thought of it as a half time break on the year tour. As I said last time I found a great Spanish teacher and settled into 3 hrs a day 5 days a week, my Spanish thank fully has improved immensely and I have been told that I am doing all right as I can have conversations with taxi drivers…seems that anywhere in the world people struggle to talk to their cab drivers. I moved in with a great family that was very kind to me, I do not know how they managed to remain so patient and I am sure that they are still laughing at some of the things that I said as I tried to converse in my new language. I miss them already, hopefully one day I can see them again.

So I actually got into a routine of swimming, class, lunch, siesta, reading, internet and dinner. Sat in the great plazas having a beer or a coffee, sorting out my gear, wandering around town etc. Salta is a great town and should not be missed if you are coming to Argentina.

One weekend I went off to visit a friend from the Pantanal, Laura is living in a argricultural city, Santiago del Estero, about 6hrs south of Salta. Arriving late Fiday night we went out to a local dance night (pena) in a basketball stadium, many locals dancing to folklore music that was a lot better than it sounds. Saturday morning we managed to stumble across the local zoo and though she protested to heading on the condition of the animals I managed to convince her to go in…also given that it was 10c. Well you really do have to feel sorry for the animals that are subject to this treatment, but this little backwater town did have 2 Bengal tigers (you could get to within 30cm of them), 7 lions that looked to be breading (that is not right then but they had a cub), baboons, pumas, chimpanzees and other local animals. Crazy to think how they afforded them all in the first place. But that being said I did manage to get some good photos given you could get so close…in fact close enough to feel in real danger at times.

On Sunday we took off to a community project that Laura is involved with, 3 hrs in the back of the corn delivery van in one of the coldest experiences in my life. We arrived to a warm welcome and the other members set about helping the local community to go through there government grant to buy 40 new goats, where will they keep them, what will they do with them etc. Really very interesting to see how they go about an aid project with consultation and implementation, I think this is the first time I have actually used my degree for something. The photos of the two boys are from this day and I have to say that I am very happy with them.

Back to Salta for my final week….after a sad farewell from my new found family and friends I set off down through Cafayate, one really really beautiful town. The road is absolutely amazing and the whole time I was thinking I have to get back out here with my camera, so getting off I sorted out a tour, found a hostel that includes a free wine tour (what more can you ask for), as you know I am partial to a drop of vino so I set off straight away...returned just in time for the canyon tour. The guide was crazy but very informative, the landscape was amazing, huge canyons carved from ancient rivers, contrasting colours and odd rock formations the last stop was inside a natural amphitheater and where our guide pulled out a guitar and sang with the most beautiful voice, under a setting sun, purely magical.

Then took off to a mountain retreat, Tafi del Valle, a great little town nestled in the bowl of surrounding mountains. After getting off the bus I almost immediately took off on a bike and cycled and cycled around the valley, about 50kms in all and felt totally exhusted but I could not have asked for a better way to see the area. Great to get out mountain biking again, down through some crazy little towns where I do not think they see too many gringos cycling past.

Next up and off to La Rioja where I unsuccessfully attempted to get out to a NP, so with a day to kill I sat in the park and read, saw the town and entertained some locals in an internet café. Note to all, Argentina has the best English newspaper, Buenos Aires Heald, easily the best way to keep up with news abroad....free plug.

Caught the overnighter to Mendoza, this bus saw the end of my high expectaions on Argentine busses and arrived nice and early, 2 hrs late, no sleep and a bad back. Found myself the best hostel in town and explored the city with a eye on the clock. Come 5 pm my good friend Carli from Australia arrived, for a fleeting 6 day visit. It is great to have a buddy here especially when they bring two packets of TimTams and a packaged from Mum. Carli and I have spent the past 4 days catching up and have been seeing the sights, hitting the night life to a couple of hours after sunrise and been on tours to San Raphael, the wineries (in which there are hundreds) and horse riding in the Andes where we got snowed on.

Mendoza is a great oasis in the desert, very green from nearby springs at the base of the Andes is really is a cool spot to visit. Where else can you find amazing canyons, more wineries than you can poke a stick at, 30m high sand dunes, world class ski resorts, a pumping town all within 40km of each other...if only it had a beach I think it would be the ultimate paradise.

I am moving in with some buddies from the Salt Plains Tour in Bolivia for a couple of days before heading up into the Andes and then over into Santiago de Chile for a flight up to Ecuador.

See the link below for the photos of Salta - Mendoza, I will update this page from now on so check in for any updates.

Roland

South/Cental America #10 - Bolivia > Argentina

Photos: Bolivia | Argentina

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1. Oruro
2. Potosi
3. Uyuni
4. Tilcara
5. Salta
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All,

I hope that everyone is well back home, thanks to all that have written to me recently it is great to hear of everyone´s news.

Well Oruro was ok, a nice place to wander around for a day, problem was that I was there for two and all of the sites I went to see were over 400km away. So I went out to some hot springs that turned out to be a luke warm pool and returned to Oruro where I found the onlt other Gringos in town and we sat and had a couple of beers in the sun with the federal police who happend to be a little affected by the beer followed by dinner at a Chinese restaurant aptly named Jackie Chans.

Headed off to Potosi and whilst falling in love with the views from the bus I stepped off to find myself at 4000m and a little light headed. Wandered around town and noticed that everyone just wanders and goes no where, crazy people just love to freeze. Paul re-joined me in the morning and we sepnt the day checking out the gorgeous colonial town that has prospered from the imposing hill (Cerro Rico) that towers above. Over the past 450 years the Spanish and now the Bolivans have taken out enough silver to build a bridge between there and Madrid Spain...and enough dead slaves to build the same bridge (8 million died working with mercury and in the mines).

We took a tour of a working mine and it was a step back in time, 2 tonne carts coming flying at you with 10 year olds pushing them through bare rock tunnels, crawl wholes leading every which direction as someone pushed for a bit of luck. We were inside for about 4 hrs and the last spot to visit was two guys 4 floors down and working with hammer and chisel in 40 degree heat for 10 hours per day, 6 days a week. We went back outside and got to blow up the dynamite that we bought from the local shops...oh also tried the miners drink of choice - 96% alcohol, and they drink 800ml straight every Friday to applease the mountain devils.

Off next up to the strange but interesting Uyuni, a town built on the idea to send through a train line and now the tourism that has opened up with the worlds largest salt flats. We took a tour over 4 days, first day was amazing as we crossed over the dead flat endless white expanse that makes you loose all sense of perspective but makes for some great photos. Stopped by an island on the flats and then headed onto to camp where guys from the 4WD attempted to play football at 4300m. Off the next day passing mountains that looked like they had been groomed, past many lagoons full of Flamingos (I too thought they were African) and then past some great rock formations. That night at 5000m it was minus 25 outside and minus 9 inside, so cold that the toilet froze solid...Next continued through the altiplano through some great geysers, swam in hot springs (natrual and hot ones this time) and ended up at Laguna Verde a nice green lake at the base of a volcano...on the way back the fun began.

Almost into camp we heard a rattle in the axel...looking at it the back axel had shifted so without a blink Emilio the driver jumps out runs up the hill and pulls out a tree, we attempt to drive down the hill when the drive shaft breaks, again he jumps out with the sort of look that this happens way too often. So under he goes, re-joins the drive shaft and then uses the tree against the bumper to hold it is place....ingeneous, Mac Giver eat your heart out. The next day all was fixed somehow over night andwe drove back to Uyuni stopping and crazy towns and the train cemetery.

Next night caught the train to the border and then finally back in Argentina...you notice the difference staright away. That night was Paul´s and mine last night travelling together and we went out for a great steak that my taste buds have been watering for (thanks Rach - Solar de Covento), then a couple of wines and we hit Barney Gomez to all hours...plus a trip to a pool hall that could only be descibed as the lonley hearts club. The next day Ida (a Norweign friend) and I travelled up to Tilcara, a town set in amazing multi-coloured hills. I went for plenty of long hikes and visited the correctly named hill of seven colours.

I am now back in Salta were I have settled in for 3 weeks of Spanish lessons in one of the best cities that I have found in South America, my teacher is cool and I have a great deal for one-on-one teaching for 3hrs a day.

Roland

South/Cental America #9 - Brazil > Bolivia

Photos: Brazil | Bolivia

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1. Brasilia
2. The Pantanal
3. Bonito
4. Santa Cruz - Bolivia
5. Buena Vista
6. Villa Tunari
7. Cochabamba
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All,

I hope that all is well back in Oz or around the globe where ever that may be. Firstly a big congratulations to Jason and Jill who gave birth to their first child, a beautiful girl Zara Hill.

I have been travelling across the inland part of Brazil trying to escape the police from Lencois, I hope they are not still looking for me. First stop was the 60´s time warp of Brasilia, another brilliant idea to build a super planned city in the 60´s. It looks great to visit as all of the buildings are designed by the same team and most of the city was built in 5 years. The place is way too planned, with hotel quadrants, living quadrants, walking sectors..etc etc. It feels a little awkward to wander around and everything is very very spaced out. But that being said I loved some of the buildings and took way too many photos of them.

Next up off to the Pantanal, a huge swampland that floods to the size of France in the wet season (December), the place is full of exotic animals. We did a 3 day camp with a tour company that drove deep into the swamp to a great little spot that has all sleeping in hammocks. Highlights included chasing down a giant ant eater over 600m through swamp savanah, horse riding and catching piranhas in chest deep water...and then eating the little suckers for dinner. I also managed to get very close to a blue macaw...see photos later. The time was great and met some great people of the trip...some old friends that last saw me being chased by the police in Lencois.

Well knowing that these people were not going to dob me in I set off with them (Rogier. Lorraine and Stefan) to Bonito...meaning beautiful in Portugese. Though I do not know how the town got that name the things to do there certainly deserve such a title. The best thing, and maybe close to the whole trip so far, was a snorkling trip down a spring fed stream. Floating for 2hrs down a stream within a rainforest that is full of beautiful fish and get this visibility is 20m+, you really do feel as though you are swimming in an aquarium. It was amazing to say the least.

Sad to leave Brazil, I truly love the country and the people, thanks to all that I met along my journey through Brazil, you made it very special, stay in touch. One day I will return...

Next up headed over to Bolivia, strange to switch back to my limited Spanish, I was just getting used to Portugese as well. Caught the overnight train to Santa Cruz, but just a big city so I high-tailed out of there after a day of rest and exploring for Beuna Vista...and no there was no social club. Met up with a well travelled Irish guy, Paul, and we set of to the national park Amboro the very budget way. Breaking all of the normal practices that were a rip off we trekked in for 10km, then after 1 hr of negoitiations with a local community we had organised for three meals a day to be cooked and served, a guide for a day, a place to stay in the NP for 3 day all for $20..in town they wanted $170. Poured rain the first 24hrs so got to know Paul and we went for some short walks, next day overcast but with guide in tow we hiked up a creek, plenty of crossings of the creek, then up a side creek where we were treated to a tight green canyon that twisted and turned for 200m and then ended with an all consuming waterfall, very beautiful. Amboro has a lot to offer and I think that in 5-10 years it will be a major tourist region..if the government can remain stable.

We then travelled onto to Villa Tunari (7hrs, 5 buses all for 200km..love Bolivia) where there is an animal refuge park, saw a Puma, a stack of monkeys and macaws. Very cool to see all of the animals even if is not the wild. I am now in Cochabamba a pretty large town that still has a great feel to it, situated in a green valley with snow capped peaks abound. Plenty of markets to walk around in and get lost.

Off in the morning to Oruro and then to meet up with Paul again in Uyuni and do the much anticipated Salt flats tour.

And now the long awaited photo update...Some of the Rio ones are a little fuzzy due to some settings in conversion, so sorry. I hope you enjoy them, I will continue to update where possible.

Keep in touch and tell me your news...

Roland

South/Cental America #8 - Brazil

Photos: Brazil

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1. Ilheus
2. Itacare
3. Morro de Sao Paulo
4. Salvador
5. Lencois
* The stupidest thing I have ever done
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All,

I am finally off the beaches now and I have to say the last month and a half have been great. 3000 odd kms of Brazils finest beaches and I have loved every minute of it.

I last left you in Ilheus and what a great place to walk around, in fact the only thing to do, so Frederico and I (oh and also Itamar - the least stereotypical Isreali you will ever meet) went on up to Itacare and hired a great place for $5 a night each. The town is the mecca for the surfing fraternity of Brazil and it is easy to see why. Nestled against a river mouth the town stretches across to a great set of 4 beaches that typified a dream tropical beach. Rainforest drips into the water whilst palm trees hang gently over the sand...at the same time perfect 2m waves form and land with a perfect barrel. I sat out the back a couple of days and watched the surfers come through the tubes like I was living in a 3D surfing magazine. The nightlife was great - saw too many sunrises. One day we walked to Prahina Beach, considered one of the top 10 in Brazil, hired a kayak for a day and paddled up the river and through some mangroves, the erst of the time was spent relaxing on the sand. In addition the place had the best bakery since well La Petite Lorraine in St Ives (Rob you owe me a cake for the plug), and it makes a big difference instead of the same old pizza or beans and rice.

After 5 days of suffering with the perfect locations Frederico and I left Itamar and roughed it on Morro, and what a great place. If Itacare typified surfing this place was the ideal tropical island, nice clean beaches, mountainous terrain, no roads only sand walking paths, beautiful sceanery and sunsets to die for. So yes I did like the place, we stayed in a great little hostel right on the sand and though some rain dampened our spirits at first the sun shone brightly and we made the most of our days. We managed to find a very small waterfall and one of the best days was a day trip with some friends that we met, a great day out to some amazing places.

We took a boat to Salvador and on the way I think 90% of the boat was throwing up...so many long gazes at the horizon was in order. Salvador is one great place, built on two levels the town muscles the hill, it is the top part where all of the action is. So after catching the 1930´s elevator up the hill ($0.02) we found a place in the old colonial sector. We arrived just in time for the big Sao Joao festival, think Big Day Out but everyone playing heel and toe polker music...yes that much fun...and this goes on for 5 nights until 6am. SO we took to the streets and explored and explored, found some great old buildings and squares. But the real draw card is the culture of Salvador, they love life and live it to its fullest. It is very rich in African tradition and this moves the people in dance, life, food and relaxation. The best part by far in my books is the drum bands that wander the streets with throngs of people following in their wake all dancing to heavy beats that reverberate off the narrow streets...it is electric.

Most nights we found ourselves sitting in the same bar on the streets watching the thousands of people walk by, random bands walking past and many a street pusher wanting some money, in fact way too many of these and it takes a while to get known so they do not hassle you.

Frederico departed at this stage and again it was a pleasure spending the past month or so with you buddy, I enjoyed it a lot. Oh also kept meeting up with Itamar in Salvador even though he was not supposed to be there.

Next off I said farewell to the beaches after trying to get on a boat heading north, and found myself in Lencois the main town for Chapada Dimantina...a great N.P bigger than Holland. The place was amazing, another colonial town settled for the Diamionds that used to be there and though the festival was still on I escaped to the bush and did a lot of hiking. The N.P is full of waterfalls, massive valleys and huge monoliths...funny thing is that it reminded me a lot of Tasmania only with palm trees.

Now good things first I went on a 3 day hike to the base and then the top of Brazil´s largest waterfall (400m - Fumaca), it was a great hike, sleeping in caves and swimming in pristine waterfalls, the guide was cool and I loved the hike.

In brief as this could take me a whole day to write, but the stupidest thing I have ever done is try and find a way through the Brazilian jungle knowing that there was no trail...well the map had one but the landscape failed to show anything. After deciding to go on a day hike up the valley following the river, get to the end of the moutain and turn right to the road and hitch hike back to town..easy right? Well no, the first part was fine and I waled and walked up the river valley following the free flowing stream, the valley got narrower and narrower and the bush denser and denser. At one stage I was moving at about 100m/hr and the jungle was so thick that I could not see in front behind or to the sides. So I thought I saw a trail and climbed the valley wall about 150m but nothing there, so I climbed higher to about 250m up the wall and saw that the day was getting on, water was low, sun setting and I had no resigned to the fact that I was going to spend a night in the open. Seeing that the other valley wall still had sun and less junglçe I went back down into hell and up another 250m up a waterfall, stopping to rest just as sun was setting and no caves in sight I had visions of being one of those idiots that everyone hates on 60 minutes telling stories of survival, I turned around and saw back on the valley floor a small hut with smoke, so I yelled out and made my way back down. Found the hut and though my saviour spoke no english and me no Portugese we managed to converse what happened. Isaccson is the best and the little coffee farmer and he helpers gave me clothes to wear while mine dried, a great deal of food, a bed to sleep in and even let of firecrackers at night.

Early rise in the morning and after breackfast he walked me to the track and then I managed to walk to the road in about 3 hrs and get a ride into town with a beer delivery guy. Walking back into the hostel I was yelled at in Portugese and told that the police and firebrigade were out looking for me, all of the local guides were on alert....and so on and so on. But I made it back and learnt a couple of things, the map I had lied and the track marked did not exist, in fact all of the maps are not precise for the area. It was one hell of an adventure and though I caused some heartache for some people I have some great photos.....I did learn something from this though...the guy who grows the coffee knows how to brew the coffee..

I am now in Brasilia and will report on the steriod induced Canberra in the next report.

Roland

South/Cental America #7 - Brazil

Photos: Brazil

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1. Rio de Janeiro
2. Cabo Frio - Arraial de Cabo
3. Buzios
4. Porto Seguro
5. Trancoso
6. Ilheus
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All,

Sorry that I have not written sooner but I have been having too much fun.

Rio was somewhat disappointing at first but the place really grew on me, it truely is the worlds prettiest city (location wise), one of my favourite things to do was swim out the back of the surf and just look back at the Sugarloaf, Christ and Copabana...still quite surreal. But with Matt still in tow we hit the streets and saw alot of the sights...though somewhat covered in cloud. Travelling alot of time with some guys from the hostel we checked out the museam on a rainy day, off to the worlds largest stadium for a soccer match.

It is hear also that I had to say farewell to Matt, he was a great travelling companion and I could not have asked for a better travelling companion, no fights, no problems at all in fact. As long as you do not mind having Lomo completo 24hrs a day then if you get a chance grab Matt on one of his adventures. Love you dude.

So now a new adventure has started and I ran around Rio for a few more days with the English connection, went hanggliding off one of the mountains and landed on the beach, up Sugarloaf for a second time...this time at dusk. A great time and I hope that one day I can return as it an amazing place.

With regret I left and headed to Cabo Frio..stayed 20 minutes and then headed to Arraial de Cabo about 10 km away. Loved it, I hired a kayak and paddledoverto some islands, lay on pristine beaches, got thrown off an island by naval officers, saw 30 sea turtles, then lay in the sun in a perfect beach with lovely water and strangely enough cactusｴs all up the hills.

Next up off to Buzios, a place that was ｴdiscoveredｴ 30 years ago and is now an expensive resort town. Great place wit colourful fishing boats filling the harbour, boardwalks that hang over the calm aqua water and a great vibe that just makes you relax. I set off and explored the great beaches that are nesseled amoungst rocky bays, each with a barof course and settled into some good days at the beach,

Wellup the coast some more and I arrived in Porto Seguro, a total tourist town that has about 1000 locals always trying to get some money off you. But the town is beautiful, a small colonial town set on a river mouth, small colourful buildings and unfortunately heaps of mud...it flooded 3 days before I arrived. I met Fredericko (Holland) on the bus and we moved to the same hostel and have since then been travelling together. We took off to some beach cabanas on the palm lined beaches, complete with dancing girls and deck chairs the beach was not quite what I was used too but I was also not complaining.

Well a couple exploring there and then off to Trancoso an alternative village about 30km south. A very tranquile place that let us relax in the sun...I am about 15 degrees south at the moment so 30 days are quite regular.....went off to a beach party that played some interesting music and had a bit of a laugh at the locals and their hippie ways.

I am now in Ilheus, a town that does not have too much to offer. Went out to an eco reserve today and saw some monkeys and some very lush dense rainforest.

Well the past 100 days have been great, I have no complaints besides the thoughts that I wish I had more time and money to stay longer. I have travelled 40 degrees in latitude from the first city south to just below the equator, trekked on glaciers, walkedup mountains, across deserts, lay on deseretd tropical islands and travelled by all modes of transport. But that being said the listof things to see and do only gets longer.....so I may be going for a while yet.

Roland

South/Cental America #5 - Uruguay

Photos:

• Argentina
• Uruguay

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Headlines
1. Buenos Aires
2. Colonia
3. Montevideo
4. Punta del Este
5. Salto
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After leaving the beautiful Mar del Plata (and Matt for a few days) I took off to La Plata, about 300km up the coast to visit my old friends that I stayed with last time. Well once again they made me feel like I was part of the family, they are all very warming people and I loved visiting them and catching up what has been happening over the past two years. Went around to all of their homes and ate way too much, saw some more sights of La Plata with my personal guide and went for a great asado at the campo (small hobby farm on the edge of town), we ate like kings and then were blessed with a great little campfire concert over a mate with a friends uncle who turned out to be a professional musician.....very cool experience, I almost felt Argentinian. Another sad good bye and I do not know if I can promise them this time that I will return in 5 years....but hopefully.

Met up with Matt in BA, he stayed in Mar del Plata for a couple of extra days to see to some local business... BA once again we loved, caught a Boca Jr´s game that was totally nuts as the whole cement stadium shook, walked through Boca, San Telmo, cycled Palermo and went out to a couple of great restruants. Caught up with Eugene who we bumped into walking down the street. Well after seeing everything on our list we found out that we do not need a visa for Uruguay and so caught a boat across to Colonia. Well all I can say is get there, it was one of the prettiest little towns that I have seen, old buildings still in tact for the past 400 years or so, all multicoloured as the layers of paint slowly peel away revealing the bright colours of the past. Some of them almost look like marble paintings. Streets are all lined with blue balast stone from the trade ships and of course I went silly with the photos.

Matt and I decided to see the countryside so hired scooters for the day, well endless dirt roads winding through pristine countryside, vineyards and beautiful homes made me thing that I was back in Tuscany.....then the whirl of two high pitched scooters at 70km/hr, powerslides, creek crossings, beach runs and lets just say that if you are in Colonia, by all means rent scooters just not from Golden Bikes, it is safe to assume that our scooters are a little worse off than before. But make sure you stay with Ocscar, the best hostel to date.

Off to another city and Montevideo was nice but had no real attraction for the two of us, the Saturday BBQ market down by the port was a great feed and some of the buildings are amazing but really no hidden treasures...or any that we could find. So after a couple of days we headed off too Punta del Este.

Punta del Este is billed as the Monte Carlo of South America, and while very nice it was more like the Gold Coast in Australia, or a mini Miami beach. But being the low season we had the whole place to ourselves, we hired bikes again and rode for a while out to a point and saw some amazing homes, this is where the wealthy Argentinians come to play, and coastline. Second day Matt has started to feel a little ill and so I took off to get a run and swim in, great to run on the beach again (I miss my flat) and in for a swim. The water was quite cold but I managed to enjoy it, catch a couple of waves and splash around in the Atlantic. Went back and dragged sick Matt out and we lay in the sun and soaked up some rays....got a good bit of colour and then hired some more bikes and took off in the other direction.

Well we are now in Salto on the Argentinian border on our way to Iguazzu Falls, number 2 on the must see list.....can not wait to get there.

Roland

South/Cental America #6 - Brazil

Photos:
Brazil

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Headlines
1. Iguazu Falls
2. Florianopolis
3. Ilha do Mel
4. Sao Paulo
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Hello all,

I hope that you are all well where ever you might be in the world. Get comfortable all as I am in a writing mood...

Well after years of waiting I am finally in Brazil and I am loving it, the places that we have seen so far are fantastic. But first things first, when I last wrote to you we were in Salto on our way to Iguazu Falls, one jump across the border, 8 hours of waiting for a connecting bus and then a 5 hour brake down on the side of the highway with nothing but run down service station to keep us occupied, made the journey well interesting.

We checked into a great hostel complete with pool, bar a great restaurant and spent the day relaxing. Awoke to an ok day and hit the Argentinian side of some of the most impessive falls on the planet, water falling across a massive 2km cresent 80m high. We walked all around the falls and you can get really up close, so close I fact that I walked away from a boat ride absolutely soaked right through to the bone, this could of course have something to do with my repeated taunts to the driver. The most impressive sight is definately the Garganta de diablo (Devils Throat), here huge volumes of water fall into a narrow point that rumbles as it falls. Huge plumes of spray saturate the area and turn the canyon into a swirling white out, truely awesome. Saw huge numbers on butterflies a couple of monkeys an alligator but no tucans unfortunately.

Next day the sky opened and we took off to the Black Market in Paraguay, a supposed haven of stolen goods that finace terrorist activities....if you believe LP that is....after a quick wander around the electronic section, seeing a couple too many guns, a sword to my throat and Matt getting hassled for 30 minutes by group of guys selling an ear cleaner a window washer and a toy plane (he bought the window washer) we took off for the worlds biggest dam...all I can say is well it is big and it holds back a lot of water and a great place to catch an hours sleep whilst on the tour. Next day we checked out the Brazilian side and this offered a great panoramic view of the falls and very worth the visit to both sides. The falls should be on every itinary to South America and thus nocked off number 2/5 of the must see list.

Next stop was the beaches of Florianopolis, a great city on the island of Santa Catalina. We arrived early, as in 5:30am after an overnight bus and was taken to Ingleses beach by some random taxi guy, but all turned out well as the hotel was great and a short stroll to the beach and town. Again the sky opened and we waited and waited for a clearing as we were both hanging for a day at the beach. We were finally blessed and basked in the sun of Brazil, walking for miles and swimming at any beach we came across. Took off the next day to Barra de Lago a great beach where we positioned oursleves in front of a bar that offered towel side service and blasted out Bob Marley all day...perfect. Day 3 we walked again along the coast and by this time we had regained our sun tans and felt nice and relaxed.

After a stroke of genius on our behalves we managed to catch 4 buses and 2 boats with no waiting time and found ourselves on Ilha do Mel, a great little island, 90% of it a nature reserve, 30km of beaches and two little settlements to chill in. We wondered around the island visiting all of the spots, for some unexplained reason there are 1911 cannons hidden in the jungle, a great fort and plenty of beaches. Next day we got together with all of the other backbackers on our paradise (10 of us from 6 different countries) and visited a strange natural occurance where converging rivers confuse the fish and they sit on a sink whole whilst dozens of dolphins have themselves a feast. Matt and I decided to open a new eco-tour and waded into the water up to our chests and the dolphins simply ignored us and swam around feasting like it was a Sunday roast.

Well three days of chilling out, reading in hammocks drinking a couple too many Caiprians whilst watching the sun go down and having a couple of late nights at Chileano´s we had to pack up our sand infested bags and head on up to the metropolis that is Sao Paulo. The city extends for miles around, in fact it took us one and a half hours to get into the city, but it is actually really nice in the centre with massive avenues, good Sunday markets and a great park area that resembles Central Park in NY. We found a good friend from Australia after a trying to find him for two days and caught for a great lunch and a great chance to see one of our best friends again even if it was for a brief moment.

Tomorrow off to Rio, number 3 on the list and I can not wait.

Remember to check out the http://moose.delphinus.net.au/ site for new photos in a couple of days....as soon as I can find a place that lets me plug the camera in.

Roland

South/Cental America #4 - Buenos Aires

l. Buenos Aires
2. Mar del Plata

Photos: Argentina

Well I hope that everyone is well.

I think I left you in San Martin, the prettiest town that I have ever seen and we were on our way to Mar del Plata, well that was the plan until a series of brain explosions (by Matt) led us to miss the bus, with all buses booked over the Easter break and all hostels booked in San Martin we caught the bus the BA.

Wow, what a city! BA is certainly a city that everyone should visit, the streets are lined with impressive colonial buildings that remind me a lot of Paris, the wide, and I mean 20 lanes wide avenues send streams of traffic through the city, yet though a hassle to cross (takes two light changes) you do not seem to mind. But then off these grand streets lay quaint little side streets that house some fantastic eating places. Well as anyone who has travelled with me knows I like to walk when I hit a city, so dragging Matt around we walked and walked for two days taking in a number of the great neighbourhoods of the city. We sat a date on the pavement until 2am, great balmy evening, found out that we can catch a boat to Montevideo (from strangely enough a place called Boocabus) and visited a couple of the local drinking holes. One highlight has to be finally eating Thai food again, very cool restaurant and the taste melted in my mouth.

But Matt decided that it was time to visit a friend in Mar del Plata, beach resort 4 hours south. So we took off and found Mar del to be a bit like Nice (France) crossed with Bondi. Over summer this place swells from 700,000 to over 3 million people. Hotels everywhere, those stupid private beaches that you have to pay for, great pubs, excellent nightclubs and some nice looking locals as well... Her parents have been very accommodating and Matt and I both feel like we are part of the family, I am sure that tears will flow when we leave.

Well me met Ale and feasted for the next 5 days in her restaurant that her family owns, boy her mum can cook. Ale and her sister Julie, cousin Angie and brother Mariano have shown us some great nights. On that note days go like this, wake 11, lunch at 2, dinner at 10, out at 1 and home at 6-7. Strangely enough the body does not seem to mind the abuse.

We hired some hikes and rode out to the lighthouse, went for a swim and also visited some sea lions; I was so close that I got snorted on by one of the smelly creatures.

So I am off now to visit some of Mel's relatives who showed me unbelievable hospitality last time I was in this part of the world and then meeting Matt back in BA before we head on to Uruguay and beyond.

South/Cental America #3 - Argentina

1. Puerto Madryn
2. Bariloche
3. San Martin

Photos: Argentina

All,

Well I guess all good things come to an end.....

After three weeks of glorious sunshine in some of the harshest environments in the world the weather finally turned against us and has now pretty much rained for the past two weeks. Since leaving the non existent Orca’s (only showed up for 2 of the past 18 days) we have been in Puerto Madryn, Bariloche and now in San Martin waiting for a bus to take us to the coast and Mar del Plata.

So how did we get here? Well after waiting for 5 hours for a big fish we ran into some guys (Dalius and Jay) that we met in El Chaiten and they offered us a ride in the Green Hornet’ their two seater mini-van. Well Jay was heading off to Buenos Aires and thus made room for us. After saying good bye to Mark and Eugene after a couple of restful days in Puerto Madryn, Dalius swung by the hostel and drove us straight back across the country to the beautiful lakes district and the main town Bariloche....only problem is that we arrived at 4am, so after some amazing flexibility shown by Matt and his koala like ability to sleep in any situation (he fell asleep around the gear stick with two 80 litre packs balancing on him) we managed some rest.

Bariloche and the lakes district are the ski towns of Argentina and in fact the best in South America, the great towns all have fantastic buildings modelled on Swiss chalets, wood work everywhere and the wealth floating around ski towns is always a welcome comfort compared to the other towns in S.A. 1t is here that we embarked on some Spanish lessons, from 8:30 – 12:30 and then 6 – 8:30 for 4 days we plugged away at the lessons making many mistakes but learning a lot, if only we could remember something. In the afternoons we had some activities organised and went to the museum, rode the green tube of death, almost killed myself on a downhill toboggan ride, went to an atomic plant and went for a rock climb one day with Dalius who had all of the gear in the car.

Well with classes over we took off for a couple of drinks on the Friday night and managed to have the best steak in the world (Albertos – after 9 different individual recommendations ), followed by a trip to an Irish pub (why are they in every town?) and then back to the hostel for some interesting card games. That morning we decided it was time to go and after 3 hours sleep we were back in the green hornet with a new passenger (Fiona - from Scotland, sorry Jon she does not know you) and heading up through the lakes district and San Martin. Well fitting three was a struggle so 4 was even harder but the car makes for an exciting ride, and luckily enough Fi is a physio......

Well San Martin is even more beautiful than Bariloche, shame that it has the same weather. With the following rain pattern and reports of it hanging around, we took a trip to the hot springs (Matt had been hanging out for this for about a month after I mis-read something and promised another place with hot springs) we are off to the coast where a promise of beach side living 35 degree days and a strong desire to get rid of the pasty white skin, piles of jumpers and get into the surf again has us wanting to drive the bus ourselves.

But at the same time it is a little sad as Dalius is off to BA and then blazing the way for us in Brazil, Fi has left for Santiago, but by the looks of things we may be meeting Dalius and Jay somewhere in Brazil, if not we are meeting up for a ski on 15th June and then meeting Fi in Ecuador, so all good.

Weather a side though we still love it over here, any time you can order 6 schooner size G&T’s for $14 is good by us. The locals are great; there is still millions of Israeli s running around just to let all chocoholics out there know this place has to be No. 1 for chocolate in the world.

All for now, speak to you soon when we are sitting on the beach drinking pinna-coladas.

South/Cental America #2 - Argentina/ Chile

1. Ushuaia
2. Punta Arenas
3. Puerto Natales
4. Torres del Pain NP

Photos: Argentina | Chile

We last spoke whilst we were down the bottom of the world, well after another couple of nights and some incidents that saw me almost employed by the hostel, arrested – literally in cuffs and in the back of the police car and also a crazy experience with some mountain bikes (broke down 10km out of town) we made our way back into Chile and caught up with a fine girl by the name of Alejandra, a friend of a friend from work. Well Ale showed us around Punta Arenas and we had a great time having a chat, seeing the sights and trying to understand each other. (Hola Ale)

Well it was sad to move on but we have now made our way up the coast a little to Puerto Natales, a funky little town that has boomed with all of the people going to Torres del Paine NP. In fact the tourism trade seems to be the only one. We sat around and had a great sunset, went to an eatery that served something other that hamburgers and hot chips and my stomach loved the change (thanks Rach). Oh also Rach everyone in all of the hostels have been copying down your notes, they are a lot better than LP or Footprint.

Torres del Paine....find $2000 get here, enough said, full stop.

Well someone out there is looking out for us and we managed to get 5 full days of sunshine and that makes a huge difference when walking, ask my two brothers sometime about the other side of the weather... The walk is 90km over 5 days, we did the track that is called the W’ as it is shaped like a W. The park is amazing and huge mountains rise out of nothing, some over 3km above where you are standing and are seriously vertically straight up. All covered in snow and a glacier or two.

Highlights have to be that amazing glaciers and mountain views with milky lakes in front of massive glacial fallouts. We went for a glacial trek one day with a tour guide and managed to walk through tunnels, climb the cracks and even do a bit of ice climbing. The blues in the glacier are amazing (photos one day soon) and we loved the experience though it hurt the budget it was one of those things that we can not do in Oz and the guides let us do a lot to technical things that other companies elsewhere would not. At the base of the glacier was a beautiful lake that had hundreds of icebergs floating throughout, a first for either Matt or I.

It is amazing to be walking along or asleep at night and here the crack of thunder, look above you and see massive amounts of snow coming tumbling down in a frozen waterfall. We then trekked off and found our way into a massive valley with huge peaks surrounding every view, we sat in awe of the place and could not believe the scope of these peaks, truly humbling experience.

This morning we hiked up to the base of the Torres (towers) and sat in the sun looking at some of the most amazing rock formations on the planet, you sit at the base of three towers that are over 1800m above you, straight cliffs tower above and you feel very small indeed. Well after 40mins of many photos, some of them a little more revealing that others we headed back down and now about to go out to dinner with a couple of people we met on the walk....steak and beer is calling, I can here them from the computer.

We are off tomorrow to see the Moreno glacier (the one that just exploded) and then onto Mt Fitzroy for more hiking, followed by a dash across the country to try and spot an Orca beaching itself to get a seal on the sand, only place in the world this happens, and only in March.

I hope all is safe,

South/Cental America #1 - Ushuaia

1. Ushuaia

Well maybe not but we have been spoilt with the fine weather that we have been more than assured that it is not normally like this. Every day has seen blue sky, though a little chilly, it has been fine,

The town itself has a very good vibe too it and all of the locals are fantastic and very, very friendly.We woke early the other day due to our travels and were blessed by a spectacular sunrise over the last landmass on the planet, the sun slowly crept over the horizon and we sat with cameras ready and were not disappointed at all. We then decided to climb up to the glacier that sits above the town; well 8km to the start of the walk was well worth it with a great stroll through the town and a chance to see some of the lesser sights of the town. Matt and I then climbed up onto the glacier and were again pleased to find that everyone else stops some way before that and we sat and ate lunch up on the ice. A big day and we crashed that night after a couple of beers.

Another splendid day, though the legs hurt a little we set off for the National Park and trekked through the beech forests to the bay and had a picture postcard day and sat and our jaws dropped at the views, simply amazing. Well we hiked and hiked and saw a lot of interesting views and animals that I am sure will stay with me forever. We did try and hunt down some beaver but it stayed hidden in its burrow... They were introduced by some crazy Americans back at the turn of last century.

Today I took off on a cruise of the bay and got a great view of bay, it is even more dramatic from on the water.

So far no luck on the Antarctic boats, I have met a couple of people that got aboard but for US$3200 – hit out of the budget. In fact we are managing to travel on $40/day. Tonight the hostel is putting on a huge party with all you can eat BBQ, salad and beer, $7.50.

It is great down here and we both love it, by the looks of things we will be here until Tuesday and then head back to Punta Arenas and then onto Torres del Paine for more hiking.

To everyone who wanted to know how we could be sick of ravelling already, it was 48hrs on the move in 60 hours.

Roland