Tuesday, September 18, 2007

South/Cental America #13 - Cuba > Guatemala


Photos: Cuba | Guatemala

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1. Cancun
2. Havana
3. Vinales
4. Trinidad ... and Australia
5. Havana
6. Tulum
7. Belieze
8. Tikal
9. Semuc Chepay
10. Antigua
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Hello all I hope that things are going for you as they are for me. First of all congratulations to Paul and Claire on the birth of their twin boys all are reported to doing well.

I have been moving at a rapid rate as you can see, the main reason is that I have a new travelling companion and those on limited holidays want to move a bit faster than I normally would. But that being said I have loved having James (friend from Sydney) around and we have had a ball.

So I flew in Cancun and all I wanted to do was leave again, so we booked a flight for the first possible plane out of there. We had a day in between and went for a great day trip out to Isla Mujers just off the coast of Mexico. Cancun is crazy, huge resorts filled with the package deal holiday makers, really is just the US on the Carribean.

Well Cuba, the last in the top 5 list and it was all and more than I thought it would be, the old town is amazing the heat is immense and the breeze if it exists fails to penetrate the tight allays. Every building stands like it is its last day ready to collapse like its neighbour, yet the people continue to walk into dark halls and climb broken stairs to their alloted homes. Men litter the street like the rubish that should be there, yet it is missing. Old Chevy's from the 50's cruise around in a very ironic sense, the american dream car in America's nemises. But the place has a great vibe, people are generally pretty cool, when you figure out the two tier tourist-local system and how to work it you can save a lot of money. There are plenty of people who see you as a $ but you cn have fun with their questions.

We were travelling with a great NZ couple Ross and Maryanne, we walked and walked around town taking in the sights and delights, we tried hard to find a cool night venue but ended up in guys lounge rooms with a band and a very interesting bar that the taxi driver recommended. We hired a car and headed out to the West, Vinales a cool town with huge limestone monoliths in the lush valley. We went for a great horse ride, swam inside caves, rolled our own cigars and went to a nightclub inside a cave that night. Then drove to Maria la Gorda a beautiful resort where I scuba dived over a 1000m sea cliff.

After a quick farewell James and I got another car and drove out to the east, driving many km's and covering some interesting driving conditions, we discovered that we both had the Jedi force that was need to get through a town and the patience to deal with some trying conditions. We drove through the centre of the island visting many towns and generally running a muck to Trinidad a beautiful colonial town. Lying on a perfect beach by day and partying to live music at night, eating in illegal restaurants ($5 lobster) - were I met a friend from Sydney's brother on his honeymoon - we had a ball. Driving along we found a town called Australia which was a bit odd, but made for some good photos.

We then headed along the coast to the Bay of Pigs, swam in amzingly clear water (30m) and then back to Havana for 3 more nights where we walked the streets, visiting a boxing gym, hanging out with locals, sneaking into the ballet and getting our own back on the hustlers.

Cuba is an odd country, hard to get around, hard to get some basic things. But the locals have it harder, $10 a month is the average salary plus food packages. You stay with families in their spare rooms and eat some occasionally decent food...but would recommend it to everyone especially before Fidel passes away, who knows what will happen after that.

Next up to Tulum back in Mexico, staying in paradise - bamboo huts on the carribean - visited the ruins for free through the back entrance. It is an amazing place, Mayan towers right above aqua water, but very hot and again full of tourists. We took the bus to Belieze and straight out to the island of Caye Caulker...but it rained and then rained the next day so we took off a little disappointed bound for Tikal in Guatemala. James and I also discovered that we have an amazing skill at catching connecting transport and never seem to wait for anything. We were the first into Tikal ruins (6am), one of the most impressive Mayan ruins settled on top of a hill in very dense forest. We saw the sun rise over the towers, beams streaming through the rainforest...very amazing. We sepnt the morning exploring the ruins, climbing the towers taking many photos on a spectacular day and generally soaking up the atmosphere of a very spiritual place, it almost still feels livable.

In the afternoon we headed off to Coban only to get half way and stuck in the middle of no where for the night. Next day we found our way to Semuc Chepay a natrual land bridge over a raging river. On top though the water cascades through 10 swimmable pools, a bright beautiful aqua colour and nice and warm. It is truly an amazing place and you have to see it, after 3 we had the place all to ourselves and saw the sun set between the valley casting an almost spot light over the cascades.

We are now in Antigua, another nice colonial town. Today we climbed an active volcano, yes I got to see some lava finally. Antigua is situated in a great valley between 3 volcanos, 2 active at the moment. It is a very beautiful place, a very nice colonial town, bright blue skies every day and a lot of great food thanks to the hundreds of tourists...

James left this morning and as you can tell we have had an amazing time. Sad to see him go but I understand that some people have to work... I am off to do a hike through the hills around Lago Atitlan tomorrow and then on to some islands off Honduras for a weeks worth of scuba diving.

Roland

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