South/Cental America #11 - Argentina

Argentina
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1. Salta
2. Santiago del Estero
3. Cafayate
4. Tafi del Valli
5. La Rioja
6. Mendoza

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All,

I hope that everyone is well back home, I am sure that you are all missing me. This installment sees the 6 months anniversary come around and I for sure can not believe that it has been that long, but thinking back over the time it is also hard to fathom how much I have squeezed into what really is a short period of time.

I settled into life in Salta quite easily and I think that I must have been ready for the rest, I thought of it as a half time break on the year tour. As I said last time I found a great Spanish teacher and settled into 3 hrs a day 5 days a week, my Spanish thank fully has improved immensely and I have been told that I am doing all right as I can have conversations with taxi drivers…seems that anywhere in the world people struggle to talk to their cab drivers. I moved in with a great family that was very kind to me, I do not know how they managed to remain so patient and I am sure that they are still laughing at some of the things that I said as I tried to converse in my new language. I miss them already, hopefully one day I can see them again.

So I actually got into a routine of swimming, class, lunch, siesta, reading, internet and dinner. Sat in the great plazas having a beer or a coffee, sorting out my gear, wandering around town etc. Salta is a great town and should not be missed if you are coming to Argentina.

One weekend I went off to visit a friend from the Pantanal, Laura is living in a argricultural city, Santiago del Estero, about 6hrs south of Salta. Arriving late Fiday night we went out to a local dance night (pena) in a basketball stadium, many locals dancing to folklore music that was a lot better than it sounds. Saturday morning we managed to stumble across the local zoo and though she protested to heading on the condition of the animals I managed to convince her to go in…also given that it was 10c. Well you really do have to feel sorry for the animals that are subject to this treatment, but this little backwater town did have 2 Bengal tigers (you could get to within 30cm of them), 7 lions that looked to be breading (that is not right then but they had a cub), baboons, pumas, chimpanzees and other local animals. Crazy to think how they afforded them all in the first place. But that being said I did manage to get some good photos given you could get so close…in fact close enough to feel in real danger at times.

On Sunday we took off to a community project that Laura is involved with, 3 hrs in the back of the corn delivery van in one of the coldest experiences in my life. We arrived to a warm welcome and the other members set about helping the local community to go through there government grant to buy 40 new goats, where will they keep them, what will they do with them etc. Really very interesting to see how they go about an aid project with consultation and implementation, I think this is the first time I have actually used my degree for something. The photos of the two boys are from this day and I have to say that I am very happy with them.

Back to Salta for my final week….after a sad farewell from my new found family and friends I set off down through Cafayate, one really really beautiful town. The road is absolutely amazing and the whole time I was thinking I have to get back out here with my camera, so getting off I sorted out a tour, found a hostel that includes a free wine tour (what more can you ask for), as you know I am partial to a drop of vino so I set off straight away...returned just in time for the canyon tour. The guide was crazy but very informative, the landscape was amazing, huge canyons carved from ancient rivers, contrasting colours and odd rock formations the last stop was inside a natural amphitheater and where our guide pulled out a guitar and sang with the most beautiful voice, under a setting sun, purely magical.

Then took off to a mountain retreat, Tafi del Valle, a great little town nestled in the bowl of surrounding mountains. After getting off the bus I almost immediately took off on a bike and cycled and cycled around the valley, about 50kms in all and felt totally exhusted but I could not have asked for a better way to see the area. Great to get out mountain biking again, down through some crazy little towns where I do not think they see too many gringos cycling past.

Next up and off to La Rioja where I unsuccessfully attempted to get out to a NP, so with a day to kill I sat in the park and read, saw the town and entertained some locals in an internet café. Note to all, Argentina has the best English newspaper, Buenos Aires Heald, easily the best way to keep up with news abroad....free plug.

Caught the overnighter to Mendoza, this bus saw the end of my high expectaions on Argentine busses and arrived nice and early, 2 hrs late, no sleep and a bad back. Found myself the best hostel in town and explored the city with a eye on the clock. Come 5 pm my good friend Carli from Australia arrived, for a fleeting 6 day visit. It is great to have a buddy here especially when they bring two packets of TimTams and a packaged from Mum. Carli and I have spent the past 4 days catching up and have been seeing the sights, hitting the night life to a couple of hours after sunrise and been on tours to San Raphael, the wineries (in which there are hundreds) and horse riding in the Andes where we got snowed on.

Mendoza is a great oasis in the desert, very green from nearby springs at the base of the Andes is really is a cool spot to visit. Where else can you find amazing canyons, more wineries than you can poke a stick at, 30m high sand dunes, world class ski resorts, a pumping town all within 40km of each other...if only it had a beach I think it would be the ultimate paradise.

I am moving in with some buddies from the Salt Plains Tour in Bolivia for a couple of days before heading up into the Andes and then over into Santiago de Chile for a flight up to Ecuador.

See the link below for the photos of Salta - Mendoza, I will update this page from now on so check in for any updates.

Roland

South/Cental America #10 - Bolivia > Argentina

Photos: Bolivia | Argentina

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1. Oruro
2. Potosi
3. Uyuni
4. Tilcara
5. Salta
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All,

I hope that everyone is well back home, thanks to all that have written to me recently it is great to hear of everyone´s news.

Well Oruro was ok, a nice place to wander around for a day, problem was that I was there for two and all of the sites I went to see were over 400km away. So I went out to some hot springs that turned out to be a luke warm pool and returned to Oruro where I found the onlt other Gringos in town and we sat and had a couple of beers in the sun with the federal police who happend to be a little affected by the beer followed by dinner at a Chinese restaurant aptly named Jackie Chans.

Headed off to Potosi and whilst falling in love with the views from the bus I stepped off to find myself at 4000m and a little light headed. Wandered around town and noticed that everyone just wanders and goes no where, crazy people just love to freeze. Paul re-joined me in the morning and we sepnt the day checking out the gorgeous colonial town that has prospered from the imposing hill (Cerro Rico) that towers above. Over the past 450 years the Spanish and now the Bolivans have taken out enough silver to build a bridge between there and Madrid Spain...and enough dead slaves to build the same bridge (8 million died working with mercury and in the mines).

We took a tour of a working mine and it was a step back in time, 2 tonne carts coming flying at you with 10 year olds pushing them through bare rock tunnels, crawl wholes leading every which direction as someone pushed for a bit of luck. We were inside for about 4 hrs and the last spot to visit was two guys 4 floors down and working with hammer and chisel in 40 degree heat for 10 hours per day, 6 days a week. We went back outside and got to blow up the dynamite that we bought from the local shops...oh also tried the miners drink of choice - 96% alcohol, and they drink 800ml straight every Friday to applease the mountain devils.

Off next up to the strange but interesting Uyuni, a town built on the idea to send through a train line and now the tourism that has opened up with the worlds largest salt flats. We took a tour over 4 days, first day was amazing as we crossed over the dead flat endless white expanse that makes you loose all sense of perspective but makes for some great photos. Stopped by an island on the flats and then headed onto to camp where guys from the 4WD attempted to play football at 4300m. Off the next day passing mountains that looked like they had been groomed, past many lagoons full of Flamingos (I too thought they were African) and then past some great rock formations. That night at 5000m it was minus 25 outside and minus 9 inside, so cold that the toilet froze solid...Next continued through the altiplano through some great geysers, swam in hot springs (natrual and hot ones this time) and ended up at Laguna Verde a nice green lake at the base of a volcano...on the way back the fun began.

Almost into camp we heard a rattle in the axel...looking at it the back axel had shifted so without a blink Emilio the driver jumps out runs up the hill and pulls out a tree, we attempt to drive down the hill when the drive shaft breaks, again he jumps out with the sort of look that this happens way too often. So under he goes, re-joins the drive shaft and then uses the tree against the bumper to hold it is place....ingeneous, Mac Giver eat your heart out. The next day all was fixed somehow over night andwe drove back to Uyuni stopping and crazy towns and the train cemetery.

Next night caught the train to the border and then finally back in Argentina...you notice the difference staright away. That night was Paul´s and mine last night travelling together and we went out for a great steak that my taste buds have been watering for (thanks Rach - Solar de Covento), then a couple of wines and we hit Barney Gomez to all hours...plus a trip to a pool hall that could only be descibed as the lonley hearts club. The next day Ida (a Norweign friend) and I travelled up to Tilcara, a town set in amazing multi-coloured hills. I went for plenty of long hikes and visited the correctly named hill of seven colours.

I am now back in Salta were I have settled in for 3 weeks of Spanish lessons in one of the best cities that I have found in South America, my teacher is cool and I have a great deal for one-on-one teaching for 3hrs a day.

Roland

South/Cental America #5 - Uruguay

Photos:

• Argentina
• Uruguay

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Headlines
1. Buenos Aires
2. Colonia
3. Montevideo
4. Punta del Este
5. Salto
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After leaving the beautiful Mar del Plata (and Matt for a few days) I took off to La Plata, about 300km up the coast to visit my old friends that I stayed with last time. Well once again they made me feel like I was part of the family, they are all very warming people and I loved visiting them and catching up what has been happening over the past two years. Went around to all of their homes and ate way too much, saw some more sights of La Plata with my personal guide and went for a great asado at the campo (small hobby farm on the edge of town), we ate like kings and then were blessed with a great little campfire concert over a mate with a friends uncle who turned out to be a professional musician.....very cool experience, I almost felt Argentinian. Another sad good bye and I do not know if I can promise them this time that I will return in 5 years....but hopefully.

Met up with Matt in BA, he stayed in Mar del Plata for a couple of extra days to see to some local business... BA once again we loved, caught a Boca Jr´s game that was totally nuts as the whole cement stadium shook, walked through Boca, San Telmo, cycled Palermo and went out to a couple of great restruants. Caught up with Eugene who we bumped into walking down the street. Well after seeing everything on our list we found out that we do not need a visa for Uruguay and so caught a boat across to Colonia. Well all I can say is get there, it was one of the prettiest little towns that I have seen, old buildings still in tact for the past 400 years or so, all multicoloured as the layers of paint slowly peel away revealing the bright colours of the past. Some of them almost look like marble paintings. Streets are all lined with blue balast stone from the trade ships and of course I went silly with the photos.

Matt and I decided to see the countryside so hired scooters for the day, well endless dirt roads winding through pristine countryside, vineyards and beautiful homes made me thing that I was back in Tuscany.....then the whirl of two high pitched scooters at 70km/hr, powerslides, creek crossings, beach runs and lets just say that if you are in Colonia, by all means rent scooters just not from Golden Bikes, it is safe to assume that our scooters are a little worse off than before. But make sure you stay with Ocscar, the best hostel to date.

Off to another city and Montevideo was nice but had no real attraction for the two of us, the Saturday BBQ market down by the port was a great feed and some of the buildings are amazing but really no hidden treasures...or any that we could find. So after a couple of days we headed off too Punta del Este.

Punta del Este is billed as the Monte Carlo of South America, and while very nice it was more like the Gold Coast in Australia, or a mini Miami beach. But being the low season we had the whole place to ourselves, we hired bikes again and rode for a while out to a point and saw some amazing homes, this is where the wealthy Argentinians come to play, and coastline. Second day Matt has started to feel a little ill and so I took off to get a run and swim in, great to run on the beach again (I miss my flat) and in for a swim. The water was quite cold but I managed to enjoy it, catch a couple of waves and splash around in the Atlantic. Went back and dragged sick Matt out and we lay in the sun and soaked up some rays....got a good bit of colour and then hired some more bikes and took off in the other direction.

Well we are now in Salto on the Argentinian border on our way to Iguazzu Falls, number 2 on the must see list.....can not wait to get there.

Roland

South/Cental America #4 - Buenos Aires

l. Buenos Aires
2. Mar del Plata

Photos: Argentina

Well I hope that everyone is well.

I think I left you in San Martin, the prettiest town that I have ever seen and we were on our way to Mar del Plata, well that was the plan until a series of brain explosions (by Matt) led us to miss the bus, with all buses booked over the Easter break and all hostels booked in San Martin we caught the bus the BA.

Wow, what a city! BA is certainly a city that everyone should visit, the streets are lined with impressive colonial buildings that remind me a lot of Paris, the wide, and I mean 20 lanes wide avenues send streams of traffic through the city, yet though a hassle to cross (takes two light changes) you do not seem to mind. But then off these grand streets lay quaint little side streets that house some fantastic eating places. Well as anyone who has travelled with me knows I like to walk when I hit a city, so dragging Matt around we walked and walked for two days taking in a number of the great neighbourhoods of the city. We sat a date on the pavement until 2am, great balmy evening, found out that we can catch a boat to Montevideo (from strangely enough a place called Boocabus) and visited a couple of the local drinking holes. One highlight has to be finally eating Thai food again, very cool restaurant and the taste melted in my mouth.

But Matt decided that it was time to visit a friend in Mar del Plata, beach resort 4 hours south. So we took off and found Mar del to be a bit like Nice (France) crossed with Bondi. Over summer this place swells from 700,000 to over 3 million people. Hotels everywhere, those stupid private beaches that you have to pay for, great pubs, excellent nightclubs and some nice looking locals as well... Her parents have been very accommodating and Matt and I both feel like we are part of the family, I am sure that tears will flow when we leave.

Well me met Ale and feasted for the next 5 days in her restaurant that her family owns, boy her mum can cook. Ale and her sister Julie, cousin Angie and brother Mariano have shown us some great nights. On that note days go like this, wake 11, lunch at 2, dinner at 10, out at 1 and home at 6-7. Strangely enough the body does not seem to mind the abuse.

We hired some hikes and rode out to the lighthouse, went for a swim and also visited some sea lions; I was so close that I got snorted on by one of the smelly creatures.

So I am off now to visit some of Mel's relatives who showed me unbelievable hospitality last time I was in this part of the world and then meeting Matt back in BA before we head on to Uruguay and beyond.

South/Cental America #3 - Argentina

1. Puerto Madryn
2. Bariloche
3. San Martin

Photos: Argentina

All,

Well I guess all good things come to an end.....

After three weeks of glorious sunshine in some of the harshest environments in the world the weather finally turned against us and has now pretty much rained for the past two weeks. Since leaving the non existent Orca’s (only showed up for 2 of the past 18 days) we have been in Puerto Madryn, Bariloche and now in San Martin waiting for a bus to take us to the coast and Mar del Plata.

So how did we get here? Well after waiting for 5 hours for a big fish we ran into some guys (Dalius and Jay) that we met in El Chaiten and they offered us a ride in the Green Hornet’ their two seater mini-van. Well Jay was heading off to Buenos Aires and thus made room for us. After saying good bye to Mark and Eugene after a couple of restful days in Puerto Madryn, Dalius swung by the hostel and drove us straight back across the country to the beautiful lakes district and the main town Bariloche....only problem is that we arrived at 4am, so after some amazing flexibility shown by Matt and his koala like ability to sleep in any situation (he fell asleep around the gear stick with two 80 litre packs balancing on him) we managed some rest.

Bariloche and the lakes district are the ski towns of Argentina and in fact the best in South America, the great towns all have fantastic buildings modelled on Swiss chalets, wood work everywhere and the wealth floating around ski towns is always a welcome comfort compared to the other towns in S.A. 1t is here that we embarked on some Spanish lessons, from 8:30 – 12:30 and then 6 – 8:30 for 4 days we plugged away at the lessons making many mistakes but learning a lot, if only we could remember something. In the afternoons we had some activities organised and went to the museum, rode the green tube of death, almost killed myself on a downhill toboggan ride, went to an atomic plant and went for a rock climb one day with Dalius who had all of the gear in the car.

Well with classes over we took off for a couple of drinks on the Friday night and managed to have the best steak in the world (Albertos – after 9 different individual recommendations ), followed by a trip to an Irish pub (why are they in every town?) and then back to the hostel for some interesting card games. That morning we decided it was time to go and after 3 hours sleep we were back in the green hornet with a new passenger (Fiona - from Scotland, sorry Jon she does not know you) and heading up through the lakes district and San Martin. Well fitting three was a struggle so 4 was even harder but the car makes for an exciting ride, and luckily enough Fi is a physio......

Well San Martin is even more beautiful than Bariloche, shame that it has the same weather. With the following rain pattern and reports of it hanging around, we took a trip to the hot springs (Matt had been hanging out for this for about a month after I mis-read something and promised another place with hot springs) we are off to the coast where a promise of beach side living 35 degree days and a strong desire to get rid of the pasty white skin, piles of jumpers and get into the surf again has us wanting to drive the bus ourselves.

But at the same time it is a little sad as Dalius is off to BA and then blazing the way for us in Brazil, Fi has left for Santiago, but by the looks of things we may be meeting Dalius and Jay somewhere in Brazil, if not we are meeting up for a ski on 15th June and then meeting Fi in Ecuador, so all good.

Weather a side though we still love it over here, any time you can order 6 schooner size G&T’s for $14 is good by us. The locals are great; there is still millions of Israeli s running around just to let all chocoholics out there know this place has to be No. 1 for chocolate in the world.

All for now, speak to you soon when we are sitting on the beach drinking pinna-coladas.

South/Cental America #2 - Argentina/ Chile

1. Ushuaia
2. Punta Arenas
3. Puerto Natales
4. Torres del Pain NP

Photos: Argentina | Chile

We last spoke whilst we were down the bottom of the world, well after another couple of nights and some incidents that saw me almost employed by the hostel, arrested – literally in cuffs and in the back of the police car and also a crazy experience with some mountain bikes (broke down 10km out of town) we made our way back into Chile and caught up with a fine girl by the name of Alejandra, a friend of a friend from work. Well Ale showed us around Punta Arenas and we had a great time having a chat, seeing the sights and trying to understand each other. (Hola Ale)

Well it was sad to move on but we have now made our way up the coast a little to Puerto Natales, a funky little town that has boomed with all of the people going to Torres del Paine NP. In fact the tourism trade seems to be the only one. We sat around and had a great sunset, went to an eatery that served something other that hamburgers and hot chips and my stomach loved the change (thanks Rach). Oh also Rach everyone in all of the hostels have been copying down your notes, they are a lot better than LP or Footprint.

Torres del Paine....find $2000 get here, enough said, full stop.

Well someone out there is looking out for us and we managed to get 5 full days of sunshine and that makes a huge difference when walking, ask my two brothers sometime about the other side of the weather... The walk is 90km over 5 days, we did the track that is called the W’ as it is shaped like a W. The park is amazing and huge mountains rise out of nothing, some over 3km above where you are standing and are seriously vertically straight up. All covered in snow and a glacier or two.

Highlights have to be that amazing glaciers and mountain views with milky lakes in front of massive glacial fallouts. We went for a glacial trek one day with a tour guide and managed to walk through tunnels, climb the cracks and even do a bit of ice climbing. The blues in the glacier are amazing (photos one day soon) and we loved the experience though it hurt the budget it was one of those things that we can not do in Oz and the guides let us do a lot to technical things that other companies elsewhere would not. At the base of the glacier was a beautiful lake that had hundreds of icebergs floating throughout, a first for either Matt or I.

It is amazing to be walking along or asleep at night and here the crack of thunder, look above you and see massive amounts of snow coming tumbling down in a frozen waterfall. We then trekked off and found our way into a massive valley with huge peaks surrounding every view, we sat in awe of the place and could not believe the scope of these peaks, truly humbling experience.

This morning we hiked up to the base of the Torres (towers) and sat in the sun looking at some of the most amazing rock formations on the planet, you sit at the base of three towers that are over 1800m above you, straight cliffs tower above and you feel very small indeed. Well after 40mins of many photos, some of them a little more revealing that others we headed back down and now about to go out to dinner with a couple of people we met on the walk....steak and beer is calling, I can here them from the computer.

We are off tomorrow to see the Moreno glacier (the one that just exploded) and then onto Mt Fitzroy for more hiking, followed by a dash across the country to try and spot an Orca beaching itself to get a seal on the sand, only place in the world this happens, and only in March.

I hope all is safe,

South/Cental America #1 - Ushuaia

1. Ushuaia

Well maybe not but we have been spoilt with the fine weather that we have been more than assured that it is not normally like this. Every day has seen blue sky, though a little chilly, it has been fine,

The town itself has a very good vibe too it and all of the locals are fantastic and very, very friendly.We woke early the other day due to our travels and were blessed by a spectacular sunrise over the last landmass on the planet, the sun slowly crept over the horizon and we sat with cameras ready and were not disappointed at all. We then decided to climb up to the glacier that sits above the town; well 8km to the start of the walk was well worth it with a great stroll through the town and a chance to see some of the lesser sights of the town. Matt and I then climbed up onto the glacier and were again pleased to find that everyone else stops some way before that and we sat and ate lunch up on the ice. A big day and we crashed that night after a couple of beers.

Another splendid day, though the legs hurt a little we set off for the National Park and trekked through the beech forests to the bay and had a picture postcard day and sat and our jaws dropped at the views, simply amazing. Well we hiked and hiked and saw a lot of interesting views and animals that I am sure will stay with me forever. We did try and hunt down some beaver but it stayed hidden in its burrow... They were introduced by some crazy Americans back at the turn of last century.

Today I took off on a cruise of the bay and got a great view of bay, it is even more dramatic from on the water.

So far no luck on the Antarctic boats, I have met a couple of people that got aboard but for US$3200 – hit out of the budget. In fact we are managing to travel on $40/day. Tonight the hostel is putting on a huge party with all you can eat BBQ, salad and beer, $7.50.

It is great down here and we both love it, by the looks of things we will be here until Tuesday and then head back to Punta Arenas and then onto Torres del Paine for more hiking.

To everyone who wanted to know how we could be sick of ravelling already, it was 48hrs on the move in 60 hours.

Roland

Top 10 Photo Skills #3: Get closer!

To really bring out the best in your subject matter one tool to use is to get in close, and then get in closer. By taking an image that is closer than you would normally view something can really draw in people's attention.

One of the cheapest additions you can buy is a macro filter. I purchased a 4x macro filter a couple of years ago and though it may not grab the uber-professional level of detail I have had some great success with thisrge lens addition.


The images:

• Santiago del Estero Zoo, Argentina.
  Using a 70-300mm lense I was able to get this lazing tiger as he gazed out of the bars. The look in his eye is immense.
  
  
• Mendocino, California
  Using the maco filter here and really tightening up on the centre of the flower. The petals are in high detail and the
  colour contrasts are fantastic. I have split this image up into 9 and it displays really well.
  
  
• Stanislaus National Forest, California
  Using the maco filter here and at F2.8 you get this great depth of field close up on the small white flower elements.
  
  
  

Mar del Plata - Argentina

The summer haven of Mar del Plata (5 hrs south of Buenos Aires) swells in summertime as hundreds of thousands of Argentinians take their summer vacations on the beach.

A little scruffy around the edges, Mar del or MDP as it is known by the locals has a fantastic night with its super clubs and continually busy bar scene.

During the day the locals relax by the beach in European fashion, whilst the locals ply their trade in the hospitality scene or on one of the famous orange fishing boats.

Images :: Mar del Plata