South/Cental America #10 - Bolivia > Argentina

Photos: Bolivia | Argentina

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1. Oruro
2. Potosi
3. Uyuni
4. Tilcara
5. Salta
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All,

I hope that everyone is well back home, thanks to all that have written to me recently it is great to hear of everyone´s news.

Well Oruro was ok, a nice place to wander around for a day, problem was that I was there for two and all of the sites I went to see were over 400km away. So I went out to some hot springs that turned out to be a luke warm pool and returned to Oruro where I found the onlt other Gringos in town and we sat and had a couple of beers in the sun with the federal police who happend to be a little affected by the beer followed by dinner at a Chinese restaurant aptly named Jackie Chans.

Headed off to Potosi and whilst falling in love with the views from the bus I stepped off to find myself at 4000m and a little light headed. Wandered around town and noticed that everyone just wanders and goes no where, crazy people just love to freeze. Paul re-joined me in the morning and we sepnt the day checking out the gorgeous colonial town that has prospered from the imposing hill (Cerro Rico) that towers above. Over the past 450 years the Spanish and now the Bolivans have taken out enough silver to build a bridge between there and Madrid Spain...and enough dead slaves to build the same bridge (8 million died working with mercury and in the mines).

We took a tour of a working mine and it was a step back in time, 2 tonne carts coming flying at you with 10 year olds pushing them through bare rock tunnels, crawl wholes leading every which direction as someone pushed for a bit of luck. We were inside for about 4 hrs and the last spot to visit was two guys 4 floors down and working with hammer and chisel in 40 degree heat for 10 hours per day, 6 days a week. We went back outside and got to blow up the dynamite that we bought from the local shops...oh also tried the miners drink of choice - 96% alcohol, and they drink 800ml straight every Friday to applease the mountain devils.

Off next up to the strange but interesting Uyuni, a town built on the idea to send through a train line and now the tourism that has opened up with the worlds largest salt flats. We took a tour over 4 days, first day was amazing as we crossed over the dead flat endless white expanse that makes you loose all sense of perspective but makes for some great photos. Stopped by an island on the flats and then headed onto to camp where guys from the 4WD attempted to play football at 4300m. Off the next day passing mountains that looked like they had been groomed, past many lagoons full of Flamingos (I too thought they were African) and then past some great rock formations. That night at 5000m it was minus 25 outside and minus 9 inside, so cold that the toilet froze solid...Next continued through the altiplano through some great geysers, swam in hot springs (natrual and hot ones this time) and ended up at Laguna Verde a nice green lake at the base of a volcano...on the way back the fun began.

Almost into camp we heard a rattle in the axel...looking at it the back axel had shifted so without a blink Emilio the driver jumps out runs up the hill and pulls out a tree, we attempt to drive down the hill when the drive shaft breaks, again he jumps out with the sort of look that this happens way too often. So under he goes, re-joins the drive shaft and then uses the tree against the bumper to hold it is place....ingeneous, Mac Giver eat your heart out. The next day all was fixed somehow over night andwe drove back to Uyuni stopping and crazy towns and the train cemetery.

Next night caught the train to the border and then finally back in Argentina...you notice the difference staright away. That night was Paul´s and mine last night travelling together and we went out for a great steak that my taste buds have been watering for (thanks Rach - Solar de Covento), then a couple of wines and we hit Barney Gomez to all hours...plus a trip to a pool hall that could only be descibed as the lonley hearts club. The next day Ida (a Norweign friend) and I travelled up to Tilcara, a town set in amazing multi-coloured hills. I went for plenty of long hikes and visited the correctly named hill of seven colours.

I am now back in Salta were I have settled in for 3 weeks of Spanish lessons in one of the best cities that I have found in South America, my teacher is cool and I have a great deal for one-on-one teaching for 3hrs a day.

Roland

South/Cental America #9 - Brazil > Bolivia

Photos: Brazil | Bolivia

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1. Brasilia
2. The Pantanal
3. Bonito
4. Santa Cruz - Bolivia
5. Buena Vista
6. Villa Tunari
7. Cochabamba
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All,

I hope that all is well back in Oz or around the globe where ever that may be. Firstly a big congratulations to Jason and Jill who gave birth to their first child, a beautiful girl Zara Hill.

I have been travelling across the inland part of Brazil trying to escape the police from Lencois, I hope they are not still looking for me. First stop was the 60´s time warp of Brasilia, another brilliant idea to build a super planned city in the 60´s. It looks great to visit as all of the buildings are designed by the same team and most of the city was built in 5 years. The place is way too planned, with hotel quadrants, living quadrants, walking sectors..etc etc. It feels a little awkward to wander around and everything is very very spaced out. But that being said I loved some of the buildings and took way too many photos of them.

Next up off to the Pantanal, a huge swampland that floods to the size of France in the wet season (December), the place is full of exotic animals. We did a 3 day camp with a tour company that drove deep into the swamp to a great little spot that has all sleeping in hammocks. Highlights included chasing down a giant ant eater over 600m through swamp savanah, horse riding and catching piranhas in chest deep water...and then eating the little suckers for dinner. I also managed to get very close to a blue macaw...see photos later. The time was great and met some great people of the trip...some old friends that last saw me being chased by the police in Lencois.

Well knowing that these people were not going to dob me in I set off with them (Rogier. Lorraine and Stefan) to Bonito...meaning beautiful in Portugese. Though I do not know how the town got that name the things to do there certainly deserve such a title. The best thing, and maybe close to the whole trip so far, was a snorkling trip down a spring fed stream. Floating for 2hrs down a stream within a rainforest that is full of beautiful fish and get this visibility is 20m+, you really do feel as though you are swimming in an aquarium. It was amazing to say the least.

Sad to leave Brazil, I truly love the country and the people, thanks to all that I met along my journey through Brazil, you made it very special, stay in touch. One day I will return...

Next up headed over to Bolivia, strange to switch back to my limited Spanish, I was just getting used to Portugese as well. Caught the overnight train to Santa Cruz, but just a big city so I high-tailed out of there after a day of rest and exploring for Beuna Vista...and no there was no social club. Met up with a well travelled Irish guy, Paul, and we set of to the national park Amboro the very budget way. Breaking all of the normal practices that were a rip off we trekked in for 10km, then after 1 hr of negoitiations with a local community we had organised for three meals a day to be cooked and served, a guide for a day, a place to stay in the NP for 3 day all for $20..in town they wanted $170. Poured rain the first 24hrs so got to know Paul and we went for some short walks, next day overcast but with guide in tow we hiked up a creek, plenty of crossings of the creek, then up a side creek where we were treated to a tight green canyon that twisted and turned for 200m and then ended with an all consuming waterfall, very beautiful. Amboro has a lot to offer and I think that in 5-10 years it will be a major tourist region..if the government can remain stable.

We then travelled onto to Villa Tunari (7hrs, 5 buses all for 200km..love Bolivia) where there is an animal refuge park, saw a Puma, a stack of monkeys and macaws. Very cool to see all of the animals even if is not the wild. I am now in Cochabamba a pretty large town that still has a great feel to it, situated in a green valley with snow capped peaks abound. Plenty of markets to walk around in and get lost.

Off in the morning to Oruro and then to meet up with Paul again in Uyuni and do the much anticipated Salt flats tour.

And now the long awaited photo update...Some of the Rio ones are a little fuzzy due to some settings in conversion, so sorry. I hope you enjoy them, I will continue to update where possible.

Keep in touch and tell me your news...

Roland